Chardonnay lovers generally fall into one of two camps; those who love a 'buttery' style and those who prefer sans-dairy. Although if you’re a Chardonnay lover like me, you may be willing to run the gauntlet on a broad range of styles.
So, what is it that lends this creaminess to some Chardonnay wines?
The softer notes come from a process called ‘Malolactic Fermentation’, or MLF for short. Under the right conditions, a bacteria named Oenococcus oeni (and a few others) converts malic acid to lactic acid, resulting in a more genteel acid profile.
Apologies for getting quite technical here, but MLF is actually a "decarboxylation" instead of a fermentation. The bacterial cell takes in malate, converts it into lactate, and releases carbon dioxide in the process.
Malic acid is the sour tartness you find in granny smith apples while Lactic acid is present in milk and dairy products. A greater amount of MLF will results in a less tart, more buttery wine.
However, it’s not I only acid conversion that creates this effect. Interestingly, there’s a biproduct of MLF called Diacetyl which has a nutty, toasted flavour at low concentrations and an overwhelming buttery flavour at higher concentrations.
Winemakers are quite judicious with the percentage of MLF they allow to occur in their Chardonnays, stopping the conversion at the optimal point by adding sulphur and cooling the wine. Many winemakers prefer to not allow any MLF at all, it all comes down to target wine style.
California has embraced the buttery Chardonnay and many brands even use a direct reference to “butter” on their label.
As for Margaret River, you’ll find the full range of Chardonnays on offer. One thing’s for sure though, no matter how much MLF, this varietal is a true hero of this region in all its forms.